Skip to main content

The Bigger Picture: On a Lonely Beach South of Swakopmund

   On a small piece of deserted land south of Swakopmund, precisely where the crisp, cold, salty Atlantic Ocean provocatively licks at the golden dunes of the Namib Desert and in a gesture of mock chivalry lays a detritus of empty shells, dead kelp and lifeless jellyfish like a sacrifice upon the golden hems of her sandy shores and beaches, standing precisely here, one is forced to acknowledge the enormous power and persistence of Nature, and simultaneously, the insignificance of one's existence in a primeval process that supposedly started at the birth of our universe, and since then, relentlessly, tirelessly, compulsively continues along a predetermined yet unpredictable trajectory. 
   As the afternoon progresses and the Earth imperceptibly turns on its axis away from the Big Fire Star, temperatures drop along the Namibian coast and quite sharply. 

   The dunes of the Namib Desert blush an alluring pink, surreal to the eye, contrasting sharply with a perfectly cloudless background of ultramarine sky; it is the type of visual overdose that easily reduces the fine artist to helpless impotency and paralyses the photographer. A body of air, surprisingly cold, rushes across the ocean towards the shores between Swakopmund and Walvis Bay, and ruffles the neat ridges of the pink dunes. 

   To be in awe of Nature is a wonderful feeling; very few man-made contrivances can compete. 

   Before me stretches a restless and immense body of undrinkable water, unfathomably deep and mysterious, possibly older than Life itself, and behind me, glittering in the setting sun, the world's oldest desert. Amazingly, the mind isn't boggled; it doesn't collapse into a confusing hiss of white noise and static, synapses incinerating one by one, etc. In proper order, the senses are impressed, a visual reality of the surroundings is absorbed, recognised, categorised and internalised; awe pleasantly rises, floods the consciousness and then, as if by a mental switch, human nature awakens to the realisation that (slightly amended for the purposes of this post) vita brevis natura sit aeterna (life is short, nature is eternal). 

   If modern theorists are to be believed, it was from this same body of water, millions of years ago, a terrestrial habitat arose and the first continent appeared. The ancient desert sands flowing freely between my fingers, hold in their hidden depths the memories of swollen tropical rivers, daily deluges of rain, high humidity, huge green-leafed plants and a largesse of every kind of Life. As if to echo Percy Bysshe Shelley in his iconic poem, Ozymandias, the only appropriate words which readily came to mind were ''nothing beside remains''.

   From that point in time, on a small piece of deserted land, millions of years ago, to this day in 2014, south of Swakopmund, much has happened but has anything essentially changed? 

   The first massive continent split up and pieces drifted away, borne along by the elliptical revolution of the Earth, taking along flora and fauna to various climates. All that remains today of that super-continent is the narrowed chin that is southern Africa, and the Namib Desert. 

   The tropical garden on the coast of ancient Namibia shriveled up and disintegrated into a hauntingly beautiful, silent and fascinating desert, whispering its secrets on an ancient wind from the sea in a language no one understands, while the Atlantic Ocean, the incubator of modern terrestrial Life, appears to the eye to stretch to infinity; unchanging and yet changeable, timeless and merciless as eternity itself.

   Mine is but a few minutes, an hour at the most, on this small piece of land; literally nothing in the course of Time. 

   Looking at the pinkish dunes, the ultramarine sky yawning above them and listening to the rhythmic crash of the foamy waves, there exists within me a conviction that both Time and memories are superfluous here. Irrelevant. Nature moves at its own pace, obeys its own Laws, arcing, bending, sagging, pushing and pulling in accordance with elemental forces older than the Earth itself, far beyond the parametres of any imaginary control, while humanity is pathetically incidental; a brief, frenzied, trivial commotion to ensure the survival of its particular DNA.This, truly, is a glimpse at the Bigger Picture; a snapshot, like the twinkle of a distant star in a vault of dense darkness. 

   I put on my sunglasses against the golden glare of the setting sun, its silver sparks of light dancing on the shallow waves, pour Jaegermeister into a small shot glass, gulp it down and close my eyes to the magnificence of my surroundings. 

   As the liquid settles warmly in my stomach, that ancient wind whistles in my ears, cold at its core, the sun slides slowly behind a rising curtain of fog approaching across the ocean, a long shadow shrouds the dunes and the Atlantic at low-tide roars faintly in the distance...as comforting and persuasive as a mother's call home. 

   Written by Anya Namaqua Links: anyalinks@gmail.com  




Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Tattoo: Ethiopian Coptic Cross (Meskel) Design

     C hristianity arrived on the shores of southern Africa approximately 600 years ago, and unbeknownst to the bright-eyed European missionaries who disembarked from sodden ships at the Cape of Good Hope, it had been practiced on the African continent, and flourished as an independent religion for almost 1,000 years before, in Ethiopia. Today, the oldest Christian faith on the continent, rumoured to be closest in resembling early Christianity, is the Ethiopian Coptic Church (or the Ethiopian Orthodox Tewahedo Church).      The cross is the popular universal symbol of Christianity and across the world, in every Christian community, it remains within the parameters of a simple design (+) , almost 2,000 years old. The Ethiopian Coptic Church is the only known Christian community that produces a remarkable version of the cross, called ''meskel''; even more remarkable, this development occurred independent of the influence of European Christianity. Meskel patterns and des

PRESS RELEASE: Insight Namibia Magazine Celebrates 100th Edition (September 2013)

In a magazine market known for its fly-by-nights and flash-in-the-pans, Insight Namibia cc marks its 100th monthly edition with the September 2013 issue . The first edition appeared in September 2004 and throughout the last nine years, Insight maintained its position as Namibia's premier current affairs magazine . Originally started and currently based in Windhoek, Namibia, the magazine's founders, Robin Sherbourne, David Lush and Tangeni Amupadhi,  journalists in their own right, at the time (2004) wrote that Insight was 'born out of a feeling that Namibians yearn for more than just hard news.' Readers were promised a publication that went beyond the daily headlines and covered 'the story behind the story' . The magazine was not started with a bank loan; the pioneers pooled their savings to get it off the ground and to this day, that same financial discipline, has ensured that Insight has never taken a loan to cover its operating, printing and overhead cos

DATING IN NAMIBIA: Rules to Remember (for Women)

Even though many Namibian women marry and have families while relatively young (between ages 21- 28), more and more Namibian women are single and dating, 'in the market', as they say in the West. Historically, in the not-too-distant past (23 years ago only), the movements and personal freedoms of many Namibians were severely restricted and controlled by the Apartheid Regime occupying Namibia until 1989, but fortunately, since Independence from South Africa in 1990 , the status of individuals (men and women), their rights and freedoms, are protected and enshrined in the Constitution of the Republic of Namibia . For example, inter-cultural relationships and marriage was illegal 23 years ago, punishable with imprisonment. Despite these amazing new changes in the status of all Namibians, our society is still remarkably conservative (especially rural communities) with regards to the relationships and interaction between men and women. Our parents, extended family, siblings and f